In the wild, a hamster burrow has many rooms and levels, and can be several feet underground. Domesticated hamster similarly prefers large, complex and multi level spaces, but must be kept indoors for their own safety. There are many kinds of hamster cages sold at pet stores and online, but be aware that many are in fact too small, and are not suitable for hamster habitats. Bigger is always better when looking for hammy housing! If you are creative, and want to custom make your hammy cage, appropriate materials are large storage bins (with installed mash sides for ventilation), stacked on one-another and connected with tunnels, or used as single units; as well as Ikea units and storage components edited for safety and ventilation. Also good to use are large bird cages, with half inch bar spacing.

 

Cages we recommend: Ferplast HAMSTERVILLE Hamster, Hamster & Small Animal Home/Cage, Ware Chew Proof Four Story Hamster Cage, Ferplast Hamster Cage, and Prevue Hendryx Deluxe.

Placement of the hamster living enclosure:

 

The hamster living enclosure should be kept away from direct sunlight, heat sources, loud noises (such as televisions or stereos). The area should be well ventilated, but away from drafts and vents, in order to avoid contributing to respiratory issues. Also, remember to keep the cage away from chemical agents, cleaning solvents, and other companion animals.

The ideal hamster room temperature is anywhere from 65 to 80°F.

Cage floors:

 

The cage floor (or levels) themselves, although mostly made out of wire, should NEVER be left as is. Bare wire floors are responsible for feet swelling, redness, sores, ulcerations, bleeding, bumble foot (together with unkempt cage cleaning), and other hind foot relates issues. Because hamsters spend a good portion of the time when the whole body weight is carried by their hind feet (example- while eating), it is vital to make the cage floor and levels safe for them to use long term! If your cage (or the cage you are yet to get) has bare wire floors, add plastic covers (sometimes available to buy from the same company), cardboard cut to size, or another material that you can easily change up, disinfect and reuse. Or, better yet, get a cage that already comes equipped with plastic covered levels!

Bedding:

 

Once you’ve selected a spacious living enclosure, it’s time to choose the bedding, needed to absorb urine, and provide a comfortable place to rest. Place 2 to 3 inches of selected bedding on the bottom of the cage, and have the rest of the flat surfaces covered with fleece, towels, or similar canvas material. Hamsters will usually go to the bathroom in the same spot, so make sure to clean the potty corner every day, by removing the soil bedding, and adding some fresh one. The whole cage should be celled every 3-4 days.

Our favorite bedding is Critter Care and Care Fresh, made from reclaimed wood pulp, biodegradable and compostable after use. As it is virtually dust free, you'll experience less respiratory or allergy issues, as well as a cleaner hamster habitat. Although there are many kinds of beddings to be used, be sure to avoid the ones made from wood shavings, as they can contain volatile oils, that are often the source of respiratory problems in hamsters.

Cage enrichment items:

 

There are many items on the market available for hamster cage enrichment, so be sure to get plenty, and change up often. You hamster companion will show you what she/he likes, so make sure to provide plenty of diversity.

Aside the DIY items (often made out of cardboard or popsicle sticks), here are some of our favorite hammy fun items: Natural Living Tunnel System, Alfie Pet hammock, Puzzle Playground, Fiddle Sticks Hideout, Ceramic Critter Bath, and Tree Trunk Hideout.

The daily hamster diet should be as natural as possible. It should not have purple and hot pink color bits in it. We recommend Shprene Hazel hamster food for nutrition and variety. While Many hamster food on the market promise that they are nutritious, healthy, and choke full of vitamins and minerals, but many of the same foods or hide and Patty said contact, and also contain sugar and molasses in addition to the controversial cancer-causing preservative ethoxyquin.

To ensure the food lasts, and is in prime condition, storage in airtight Tupperware container.

In addition to pelleted store brought Food, I have a stroller also enjoy fresh food daily. Provide one serving of fruits and plenty of dark green, leafy vegetables.

 

List of dangerous foods:

 

 • Apple seeds and skins

 • Almonds

 • All citrus fruits

 • All animal derived foods

 • Bitter almonds

 • Bread

 • Grape seeds

 • Garlic

 • Fruit pits

 • Iceberg lettuce

 • Peanuts (high fat content, but can be given occasionally )

 • Onions

 • Eggplant

 • Chocolate (or any other sugary sweet)

Hammy safe foods:

 

 • Almonds

 • Apples

 • Bananas (super-rich in sugar, so be sure to give them only sparingly)

 • Blueberries

 • Bread

 • Broccoli

 • Cabbage

 • Carrots

 • Carrot tops

 • Celery

 • Cucumber

 • Darker leafy green greens like romaine, spinach, kale and dandelion greens

 • Grapes (in moderation)

 • Lettuce

 • Peanuts

 • Bell peppers

 • Popcorn (minus salt and butter!)

 • Raspberries

 • Spinach

 • Strawberries

 • Watermelon

More soon to come...

Hamsters first came to the United States in 1936. These first arrivals were Syrian hamsters, also called golden hamsters or teddy bear hamsters. Syrian hamsters are the largest hamster breed and are still the most popular companion hamsters in the world today. Today, there are more than 20 different kinds of hamsters in the wild, but only few you have been domesticated. Among these, and the ones we adopt the most often are Syrian hamsters and Russian dwarf hamsters.

 

Golden, aka Syrian hamsters, are solitary animals, and adopted as such. If kept together they have been known to fight, causing long term harm, and if not separated in time- to the death. Even tho, sadly, you can still see Syrian hamsters housed together in pet stores, it is highly inappropriate, and once hamsters reach adulthood, joint housing will lead to competition, aggressive behavior, unsanitary conditions, and if sexed wrongly- to unwanted pregnancies.

 

Russian Dwarf hamsters, on the other hand, are sociable animals, and prefer company of other dwarf hamsters. They are best if adopted in pairs or trios, in the same gender groupings.

 

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